Use fleece to create inexpensive toys for your dog or cat this holiday season…or any season.  This is a project families can do together.

• Supplies
  1. Fleece fabric - shop the remnants area at fabric stores for the best prices.  Use thinner fleece for cat toys.
  2. Fabric scissors
  3. Yard stick, tape measure, or any tool to measure length
  4. Bells or beads for cat toys (optional)
  
  
• How to make a dog toy
  1. Cut three strips of fabric.  Make each strip three inches wide by 30 inches long (or vary the width and length as desired).
  2. Make a single pile of the three strips of fabric.
  3. Keeping the strips together, make a knot 1-2 inches from the top edge.
  4. Have a partner hold the top edge while you braid the three strips of fabric, folding one on top of the other.
  5. Keeping the strips together, make a knot 1-2 inches from the bottom edge
  You’re done!
  
  
• How to make a cat toy - variations from dog toy directions
  1. Make each strip approximately ¼ inch wide by 12 inches long.
  2. Leave several inches of fabric above the knot so that you can stay clear of your cat’s teeth and claws when playing.
  3. Leave about three inches of fabric at the bottom.  If desired, attach bells or beads to one or more of the strips (select items too large for your cat to swallow).
  
  
• If you play tug-of-war with your dog:
  • Designate a specific tug toy that should only be available to the dog when you decide to play tug-of-war. This should be practiced in order to prevent confusion. You don’t want your dog to play tug with your shoes, bath towel, etc.!
  • Teach the dog “give” and “take” using positive reinforcement BEFORE playing tug of war. With the dog on leash, encourage him to take the toy, trade the toy for a treat, and then cue the dog to take the toy back. He will soon learn that giving up the toy doesn’t mean the fun is over; rather, it makes the game continue.
  • Adults should ALWAYS lead this game and carefully supervise older children who are able and have been taught to play appropriately and safely. 
  • Do not pull too hard on the toy as this can damage the dog’s teeth.
  • Some dogs growl during play, and this “play growl” is distinctive from a typical growl. If you can distinguish between the two, it is fine for dogs to play growl during games. If you cannot tell the difference or if you are ever in doubt, it is best to end the game.
  • Tug-of-war can be a great game for most dogs if the game is controlled. If your dog is pushy, possessive of toys, or shows aggressive behaviors, please consult a behavioral specialist before playing this type of game. Always err on the side of safety.

   

  Is My Pet Overweight? How to Evaluate Body Condition in Dogs and Cats

  Obesity is the number one nutritional malady affecting pet dogs and cats in the United States.  By monitoring your pet’s body condition you can more quickly identify weight gain and take steps to help your pet.

  • Why is body condition the best way to monitor weight in pets?
    Each animal has unique caloric needs.  The feeding guidelines on pet food containers that are based on age and weight provide a good starting point on how much to feed.  However, pet owners should then monitor their pet’s weight to make sure the amount is not too much (or too little, although the guidelines tend to overestimate how much to feed).
    
    
  • How can I evaluate my pet’s body condition?
    There are several easy ways to evaluate body condition in cats and dogs.
    • Place your hands on either side of your pet and gently rub back and forth over his ribcage.  You should be able to easily feel the ribs.  If you have to press hard to feel the ribs (or can’t feel the ribs at all), your pet is probably carrying extra fat. NOTE: Keep your pet’s breed or breed type in mind.  Breeds like greyhounds, pointers, and Siamese cats have a naturally thinner frame; their ribs might be visible.
    • Look at your pet from above.  Behind the ribcage there should be a defined waist.  If you see a straight line from your pet’s shoulder to his back end he is probably carrying extra weight. NOTE: If your pet is heavily coated use your hands to feel for an indentation behind the ribs.
    • Feel your pet’s back where his tail meets his body - can you feel the bones or is it very soft?  This is another area where pets tend to lay down extra fat.
    • In cats, you can also look for an abdominal fat pad that hangs down when your cat stands or walks.  The skin should normally be tucked up nicely.
      
      
  • Should I ask for help in evaluating my pet’s body condition?
    Yes - ask your family, friends, and of course your pet’s veterinary team to help you monitor your pet’s body condition.  Similar to ourselves, it is difficult for us to be objective about our own pet’s weight.  Unfortunately we have become more accustomed to seeing overweight pets and have lost sense of what normal is.  When someone offers objective evidence that your pet has gained weight, try not to dismiss it.  Your pet will live a long and healthier life at his ideal weight.
    
    
  • If I think my dog or cat is overweight, what is the next step?
    Talk with your veterinarian who can help design a food and exercise program to help your pet gradually reach his target weight.  Similar to people, quick weight loss is very unhealthy--and can be dangerous--for pets.

   

  Halloween Safety Tips for Pets
  
  While some pets may enjoy being a part of Halloween festivities, many find it to be a confusing and stressful time.  Here are a few tips to keep your pets safe and comfortable during the holiday.

  • Keep all pets indoors in a quiet part of the house -- away from the front door -- with music playing or the TV on.  This will keep your pets safe from:
                - potential pranksters outside
                - rushing out the door and becoming lost
                - noise and commotion from the doorbell and visitors (whose costumes may frighten your pets!)
    
    
  • If you choose to take your pet out with you:
    • make sure he is comfortable with all ages of people and adapts well to new situations
    • carefully consider whether a costume is right for your pet
      • remove any potential choking hazards
      • make sure the costume does not restrict your pet’s movement nor inhibit his ability to see, hear, breathe, or vocalize
      • have your pet wear the costume for brief periods at home first to make sure he is comfortable with it
      • use a reflective collar or add a reflective piece to the costume to improve visibility for motorists
        
        
  • Whether your pet is indoors or out with your family, he should wear his collar and i.d. tags.
    
    
  • Be conscious of decorations used at your home.  Animals may be burned when investigating/walking by candles/lit jack-o-lanterns or may accidentally knock them over.  Curious pets may also ingest pumpkin, corn, or fake cobwebs leading to stomach upset and possible intestinal blockages.
    
    
  • Keep candy and wrappers away from pets.  In addition to stomach upset and possible intestinal blockages, certain amounts of chocolate and candy/gum containing xylitol can be toxic to pets.

   

  Dogs Jumping Up

  • A very common complaint of dog owners is that their dogs jump up on them and others, especially when greeting.  With some practice, you can teach your dog an alternative behavior to jumping up.
    
    
  • Why do dogs jump up?
    • Whenever we encounter a “problem” behavior in pets, we should first ask ourselves:
      - Why does the dog engage in the behavior? (i.e. what is his motivation?)
      - Can the motivation be changed, and if so, how?
    • Dogs jump up during greeting as a way to say “hello”.  Two dogs that know each other often greet face to face, so a dog that jumps up on a person is trying to get closer to their face.  Can we modify the dog’s natural way of greeting?  Yes.  We can teach our dogs that jumping up does not give them the attention they desire and that an acceptable behavior - like sitting - results in good things.
      
      
  • Teaching a dog to sit for greeting
    • Step 1: Set your dog up for success
      - Arrange a training session with a friend who can act as the greeter.
      - Have your dog on leash so you have control.
      - Cut up small food treats for you and the greeter to give the dog.
    • Step 2: The process
      - Have your dog sit by your side, letting him know he’s doing the right thing with praise and food treats.  Keep your leash fairly short.
      - The greeter approaches while praising the dog for remaining seated.
      - If the dog jumps up on the greeter, she should immediately turn and walk away while you tell your dog “off” and then “sit”.  When the dog is under control, the greeter can try again.
      - If the dog remains seated, the greeter gives him food treats and perhaps gets down to his level to give the dog the closeness he desires.  In the early stages, it is fine if the dog stands for greeting; he’s still not jumping up.
    • Step 3: Practice and consistency
      - Practice this skill with different people in different environments.  Keep a leash and treats by the front door so you can practice as guests arrive.
      - Everyone who greets your dog must be consistent.  If occasionally your dog jumps up and the person gives the dog attention (even to push him away), the jumping up behavior will continue.
  • With time and practice, your dog can learn that sitting for greeting brings people to him while jumping up makes people go away.  You can teach your dog to jump up on cue if you enjoy having him jump on you.

   

  Factors to Consider when Obtaining a Puppy or Kitten from a Breeder

  • Obtaining a puppy, kitten, or other pet from a breeder can be a good choice for people who are interested in a particular breed; however, breeders vary greatly in quality.  Careful research can help you stay clear of unscrupulous businesses.
    
    
  • What should I ask prospective breeders? Talk to the breeder before visiting with any puppies or kittens to avoid letting your emotions drive the decision.  A reputable breeder will:
    • Have just one or a few breeds and tell you both the wonderful and challenging characteristics of each breed, including its genetic predisposition for health problems and its temperament.
    • Explain their breeding goals and how they test for health problems in breeding animals.  Breeders might focus on conformation (i.e. the dog’s looks relative to its breed standard) or performance (e.g., obedience trials, tracking, retrieving, hunting, rescue work), but they should all strive to produce genetically healthy animals with good temperaments.
    • Produce only enough animals for the demand (and thus may have a waiting list for puppies or kittens).
    • Provide veterinary care to all animals, including vaccinations and de-worming for puppies and kittens.
    • Breed females just a few times during their lifetime.
    • Give you references upon request.
      
      
  • What should I look for when visiting breeders?
    • The puppies or kittens should be raised indoors for socialization with people and exposure to a household environment.  Puppies and kittens do make quite a mess, but their living area should be cleaned regularly.  There should be plenty of room and toys available for play.
    • The breeder should allow you to meet at least one parent and perhaps other relatives of the litter.  This is a wonderful opportunity to see what the general temperament of the puppies or kittens will be like.
    • The breeding animals should be in good health and receive daily exercise and interaction with people.
      
      
  • What can I expect from the breeder? A reputable breeder:
    • Is concerned about who their animals go to.  They might ask to speak with your veterinarian or other references.
    • Will allow or encourage you to remain in touch after the adoption and invite you to call with any questions or concerns.
    • Wants the dog or cat returned to them if you cannot keep him/her.
      
      
  • How can I find a good breeder? Reputable breeders may not advertise in newspapers or the Internet.  Contact the Champaign Kennel Club, Illini Cat Club, or national breed clubs for referrals. Remember that rescue groups exist for nearly all breeds of dogs and cats and may have puppies and kittens available, as well.

   

  Finding a Lost Pet

  • Losing a pet can be a frightening experience.  With some preparation and a quick response, you can greatly increase your chances of being reunited with your pet.
    
    
  • BE PREPARED
    • Take clear, close-up photos of your pet from various angles to record all of his markings.  Update the photos as your pet matures.
  • Keep a collar and tag on your pet.  The tag should include your current contact information and a back-up phone number in case you are unavailable.
  • Permanently identify your pet with a microchip, in case the collar and tag should come off.  Animal shelters/animal control agencies check for microchips upon intake.
    
    
  • ACT QUICKLY
    • Respond as soon as your pet is lost.  Waiting for him to return on his own costs valuable time.  Enlist friends and family to help you.
    • File a lost report with the agency that shelters stray animals.  In the Champaign-Urbana area, lost pets are taken to Champaign County Animal Control in Urbana.  Provide a picture as well as a physical description.  Visit the animal control facility at least every other day to look for your pet, even if you provided a picture.  You know your pet best and will be able to identify him quickly (he may be dirty, matted, etc.).  Notify animal control when your pet is found.
    • Create a flyer to hand out and post in your community.  Include a color photograph, brief description, location where the pet was last seen, and phone number.  Make the print large and bold enough to be seen from a distance.  Post the flyer at intersections and public places in the area.  Hand out the flyer to your neighbors, mail and newspaper carriers, and people who walk in the area.
    • Conduct a thorough search.
      • Indoor cats who are lost outside will generally hide in fear.  They will remain quiet to avoid predators, even if they see or hear you.  Carefully search within a block of your house looking under every bush, deck, and in any small space you can think of.  Ask your neighbors’ permission to search their yards.
      • Dogs tend to travel further when loose, although small or fearful dogs may seek out a hiding place--even a corn field.
      • Your pet is most likely to move in the early morning or late evening.  Be sure to search at these times as well as during the day.
      • For scared pets--especially cats--consider using a humane trap with food inside to lure them out of hiding overnight.
      • Check the newspaper “found” ads every day.
        
        
  • DON’T GIVE UP
    • Some pets are found after a few weeks and even months.
    • Contact other shelters and rescue groups - the finder may give up and relinquish the animal to them.
      
      
  • Internet resources:
    • www.illinoishomepage.net (classifieds)
    • www.lostapet.org
    • www.petrescue.com
    • www.pets911.org

   

  Having a Litter of Puppies/Kittens

  • Having a litter is very time consuming and is messy work! Be prepared to take time off from work; some of your jobs will include:
    • Weighing and charting the puppies/kittens - daily for at least 6 weeks, longer if they are sick. This is important to make sure that they are all being nourished and growing. Puppies and kittens fade very quickly when they stop gaining weight.
    • Bottle feeding - for puppies/kittens that are not nursing or not nursing enough.  Feeding will need to be done every few hours, twenty-four hours a day!
    • Making and feeding gruel - several times a day when mom stops nursing, usually around the time that the puppies/kittens teeth and toenails come in.
    • Cleaning up - whelping box/area, at least 3 times per day
    • Many complications can arise before, during, and after the birth
      • Moms eat the placenta and often get sick from it; expect diarrhea for a day or two.
      • If it’s a large litter, often one puppy/kitten is stillborn or doesn’t survive.
      • Hopefully, the mother dog/cat will know what to do, but if she doesn’t you might have to help her with the birthing and/or nursing process. For example, moms help with the birthing process by opening the sacks and chewing the umbilical cord. Some dogs/cats don’t know to do this at first, and will need human intervention.  If she doesn’t have the instinct to nurse, you might have to hold her in position to let the babies nurse.
        
        
  • Having a litter is expensive!
    • The expectant mother will need regular vet checks, extra food, and possibly emergency vet care
    • Supplies needed:
      • Whelping enclosure
      • Scale--not your bathroom scale--has to be able to weigh small animals!
      • First aid supplies for delivery
      • Heat lamps
      • Milk replacement formula, bottles, tubes
    • Laundry expenses will go up!
    • Veterinary expenses for up to 10-12 animals:  de-worming at 2 week intervals for most puppies/kittens; series of vaccinations several weeks apart; emergencies
    • Food
      
      
  • Having a litter is a big responsibility!
    • Pet overpopulation remains a problem in our community.  There are hundreds of animals in shelters and not enough homes for them.
    • When you bring puppies/kittens into the world, you should take responsibility for them--for life!
    • It is strongly recommended that you do NOT place an ad offering “free” animals.
    • Have an application and screening process. Review the potential adopters' past experiences, vet reference, living conditions, time available, etc.
    • Have adopters sign a contract--your contract should contain a return policy.
    • Ideally, you should either spay/neuter the animals before adoption or require it in the contract and follow up with the veterinarian to confirm the surgery was completed.

     

  Dog Park Etiquette & Safety

  • If you are thinking about taking your dog to a dog park:
    • Assess Your Dog
      • Does your dog have the right temperament?   Friendly and outgoing dogs are good candidates. Dogs that are bullies, fearful, extremely shy, aggressive, or reactive are not appropriate dogs for dog parks.
      • Does your dog have good manners with people and other dogs? For example, dogs in communal parks should not knock down children, jump onto laps of people, etc. Dogs should also respond to their handlers even when distracted - make sure your dog has been trained (outside of the park) to come when called and "leave it."
      • Is your dog age-appropriate and healthy? A communal park might be too rough for                     geriatric dogs. Puppies' should complete their series of vaccinations before visiting a dog park. Consult with your veterinarian about these and other general health issues prior to any outings.
        
        
    • Assess the Dog Park
      • Visit the dog park and make sure you’re comfortable with the park’s physical attributes. Examine the fencing and turf for any safety issues. Evaluate the park's cleanliness (i.e. poop scooping!).
      • The park should be big enough to allow dogs to get away from each other.
      • Observe the dogs and people using the park--does it look like the dogs are well supervised and having a good time?
      • Talk to some users of the dog park.
        
        
  • Specific tips to keep it safe and be respectful to others:
    • When you arrive--watch the activity for a minute before going in.  Make sure you like what you see.
    • Don’t congregate at the gate!  After you’ve entered, move far enough into the park so that other users can enter/exit.  Dogs need some personal space, especially when arriving at a new place where arousal is high.
    • Remove the leash immediately upon entering.
    • Watch and interact with your dog! Trouble can start if your dog’s play with another dog is at such a high state of arousal that he no longer responds to you. Periodically call your dog to you and then let him play some more. He will soon learn that coming to you keeps the fun going (as opposed to coming being associated with leaving).
    • Intervene when necessary, particularly if your dog is pestering another dog (or being pestered by another dog) or if your dog is showing signs of stress.
    • Always pick up after your dog!
    • Follow the dog park’s rules and regulations.

     

  Fleas and Ticks

  • When should dog and cat owners begin thinking about fleas and ticks this year? As the temperature and humidity rise from winter to spring in the Midwest, fleas and ticks begin developing and we want to control them before they infest our pets and homes.

  • Why is it important to keep fleas and ticks off of our pets? There are several reasons.

    • Remember that adult fleas and ticks feed on the blood of their host.  The feeding bites result in itching and discomfort that can lead to self trauma as the pet scratches and bites. Some dogs and cats are allergic to flea bites and have severe skin reactions to just one bite.
  • Fleas infected with tapeworm can transmit this internal parasite to pets if swallowed (via self-grooming).
  • Serious infectious diseases such as Lyme disease can be transmitted by ticks.
  • Severe infestations of fleas or ticks can cause anemia due to blood loss.
    
    
  • How can pet caretakers watch for fleas and ticks on their pets?
    • Examine your pet every day and immediately after visits to wooded areas.  Fleas tend to congregate on the abdomen, around the base of the tail, and the head.  Ticks are usually found on the head, ears, and neck.  However, both parasites can be found anywhere on your pet, so conduct a thorough examination using your hands and eyes.
    • You may not see adult fleas, but you may see dark and light speckles (i.e. salt and pepper appearance) that are the flea dirt (feces) and eggs on your pet or his bedding.  Rubbing the flea dirt with a little water on white paper will produce a reddish-brown color.
    • Remove ticks within 48 hours of attachment to avoid any disease transmission.  Your veterinarian can show you how to do this.
    • Itching is a sign that your pet may already have fleas.
      
      
  • What can pet caretakers do to control fleas and ticks?
    • We are very fortunate to have several products available that will not only kill adult fleas on our pets but also disrupt its life cycle.  These liquid products are applied to your pet’s skin, are absorbed, and then gradually re-released onto the skin and coat.  Advantage and Frontline are the two of the most common products; they must be reapplied regularly (~3-6 weeks depending on your pet’s activities).  Frontline is effective against both fleas and ticks.  Oral preventatives are also available.
    • Consult with your veterinarian about which product is best for your pet given his age, condition, and lifestyle.  Be sure to use cat products for cats - the dog products are toxic to them.
    • Vacuuming carpets and washing your pet’s bedding regularly can also help control flea eggs and larvae in the home.

     

  Changes in Vaccination Protocols for Cats and Dogs

  • What has lead to a change in the yearly vaccination protocols for dogs and cats? A few converging factors played a part . . .

    • The realization and/or concern that vaccinations are not necessarily as harmless as we previously thought. For example, some cats have developed Vaccination-site Sarcoma – an aggressive form of cancer that occurs at the vaccination site. Other animals have had allergic responses to vaccines. Vaccines may also play a role in immune-mediated disturbances.
    • The discovery that animals are holding immunity to some diseases for longer than one year.  For several years, this has been a hot topic of debate in the veterinary field.  Recently, however, “duration of immunity” studies have confirmed it and now the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) has changed its recommendations for routine vaccination of dogs. The American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) now recommends that certain cat vaccines be administered every 3 years (after the kitten series).  Other organizations are also acknowledging the need for change.
      
      
  • What kind of changes will be taking place? Many of our pets have been receiving a yearly combination vaccine  –  for example, with one injection your dog can be vaccinated against distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus.  Other combination vaccines are also used. Now, because of these immunity duration studies, we know that animals hold immunity to different diseases for different periods of time. So, for instance, if your dog holds immunity to one of these diseases for three years, there is no need to vaccinate him for that disease every year. Vaccine producers are now making the core vaccines (the ones that are generally considered essential) available as separate vaccines, or in combinations that make sense.
    
    
  • What can you do as a pet guardian?
    • Talk to your veterinarian about what vaccines your pet really needs on a yearly basis. What vaccine your dog or cat receives should be based on an assessment of his/her risk of exposure to a given disease and his/her vulnerability to that disease, weighed against any risks inherent with receiving the vaccination. Your veterinarian will help make this determination based on an assessment of your pet’s age, breed, health status, environment, and lifestyle, including your travel habits.
    • Some vaccines are still important to receive annually. We are NOT recommending that you forego an annual visit to your veterinarian!  A yearly check-up for health is still essential.
    • These changes to 3-year vaccine intervals are for adult dogs only. Puppies and kittens still need additional booster vaccines. Consult with your veterinarian.
      
      
  • What other developments might be coming down the road? Development of vaccines that don’t involve injection.  Some of you may already be familiar with the bordatella vaccine that is administered intranasally. They are working on vaccines that are absorbed through the skin, called transdermal vaccines.  A transdermal Feline Leukemia vaccine is already available.

   

  Crate Training Your Puppy or Dog

  • Why is it good to crate train your dog or puppy? Lots of reasons! While we don’t like to see a dog spending vast amounts of time in a crate, the crate can come in very handy in many situations. For example:

    • Housetraining a puppy
  • Traveling in the car; staying at a hotel or another person's home
  • Hectic times at home (e.g., baby visiting, construction project, party)
  • Health crisis: sometimes when a dog is injured or sick he needs “crate rest” - like bed rest for humans - to prevent him from using an injured limb or being active while recovering from surgery. 
  • It is much easier for your dog to be relaxed in a crate during these situations if he is used to being in a crate in the first place!
    
    
  • How to crate training your dog. Above all, always make being in the crate a positive experience! First, we want to get the dog used to being in the crate when we are around. Once your dog is comfortable, we can start leaving him alone in the crate.
    • To start, place the crate in an area of the house where you normally spend time (e.g., family room, kitchen). Let the dog get used to this new object; he might go right in to explore.
    • To get the dog to go inside:
      • Toss treats or a toy into the crate. You may have to leave the treats in the crate and let the dog approach the crate at his own pace.
      • NEVER FORCE the dog into the crate – that would make going into the crate a negative/scary experience for the dog. This will set you back.
    • Once the dog is comfortable going inside the crate and lying down in there, you can try closing the crate door. Make sure the experience remains a positive one: give your dog treats when you close the door and softly tell him what a good dog he is. Initially, leave the crate door closed for only a short period. Stay in the room with him. The dog should receive nothing for coming out of the crate (i.e. no treats or praise). We want to emphasize that being inside the crate is a good thing.
    • Gradually leave the door closed for longer periods of time. When your dog is comfortable being in the crate for a while (30 to 60 minutes), start leaving the room. Remember to keep it positive: dog goes into the crate, give a yummy treat, close the door, and leave the room. At first, leave the room for only a few minutes. Gradually increase the amount of time you are out of the room.
      
      
               
  • Additional tips to make being in the crate a positive experience for your dog
    • Put soft padding in the crate for your dog to lie on (if he won’t chew it up)
    • Give your dog a special chew toy that he really likes and only receives when he goes in his crate. The idea is to get your dog to associate being in the crate with this terrific item. Safe toys include Nylabones, Kong toys, and sterilized bones stuffed with yummy food (e.g., canned dog food, dry kibble mixed with peanut butter). Stuffed Kongs and sterilized bones can be frozen to create a more challenging (and long-lasting) experience.
    • Feed your dog her meals in the crate.
    • Do not use the crate for punishment!
      
      
  • Other tips
    • Limit your dog's time in the crate to no more than 4 or 5 hours at a time or overnight. Exercise your dog before and after his time in the crate.
    • Make sure the crate is the right size for your dog. He should be able to comfortably lie down, stand up, and turn around.
    • If you’re having trouble, get help!  A behavior consultant can come to your home, assess the problem, and help you find a solution.
    • Some dogs will have a preference for a certain type of crate. For example, some dogs feel claustrophobic in one of the large plastic crates with solid walls, but might do alright in a wire crate.

     

  Canine Possessiveness

  • What are dogs possessive about? A dog will be possessive about whatever is important to him.  Usually it is a resource, such as food, treats (particularly rawhide), toys, a space (the best spot on the bed, for example), or a favored person. Being possessive, to a certain degree, is a normal behavior in dogs and should not surprise us.
    
    
  • When does possessiveness become a problem?
    • (1) Between dogs - when dogs don’t respect each other’s possessions and resort to aggressive or bully behavior to protect or obtain resources.
    • (2) Between a person and a dog - when the dog resorts to any aggressive displays (or avoidance) to prevent a friendly person from taking away an object or gaining access to a coveted space.
      
      
  • What are some general tips for managing possessiveness?
    • Be the benevolent pack leader. We want our dogs to learn that we are the ones who provide for all their needs and they don’t need to worry about resources because resources are plentiful. How do you do this? Feed meals rather than free-feeding. If your dogs have possessiveness issues don’t leave toys around – you control when the dogs get to play and with what. And, make food and playtime a reward for appropriate behavior.  Teach “Off” and then YOU decide when the dog is allowed on the sofa.
    • Have more toys than dogs. If you have multiple dogs always supply more of the desirable resource than there are dogs.  So, if you have two dogs, don’t toss out 2 tennis balls, toss out 4!  Make sure there are plenty of resources so that there is no need for conflict.
    • Teach and practice “Give Me” or “Drop It”. A good way to do this is to use a food reward.  For example:  Your dog has a toy that he likes but is not his favorite. You offer him a yummy treat in exchange for releasing the toy. Then you give the toy back! We want the dog to think that this is a game and it doesn’t mean the fun is all over.  Eventually, you can practice with higher status items and use the food reward intermittently (once the dog knows the cue).
    • Keep children and visitors safe. If your dog tends to be possessive, don’t allow him to have toys or goodies when children or visiting pets are around. Save it for a time when you can maintain control. Remember that dogs get stressed and tired; they may have a high tolerance for noisy children early in the day, but by evening they’ve had enough. Give the dogs a quiet place for a time out away from all the activity.
    • Get help when needed
      • If you have a serious problem - if your dog is controlling resources in your home - you might need some help.  If your dog is behaving aggressively, we advise hiring a behavior consultant to come to your home to assess the problem and provide appropriate guidance. You can ask your veterinarian, a dog trainer, or contact the CARE Center for referrals to behavior consultants.
      • Remember: if your dog is using aggression (growling, snapping, barking, biting) to control resources it is dangerous to ignore the problem.  It will not go away on its own and in most cases the behavior will escalate if not addressed.
      • If you are not having a problem but want to avoid one and get some good tips on managing your dog(s), it is helpful to attend a dog training class.  In a basic "beginner" or “home companion” class, you will learn how to train your dog to behave appropriately in your home.     

   

  Litter Box Blues

  • Cats are a very popular pet, in part because they can live indoors and don’t need to go outside for walks in order to “do their business.”  Thus, they are considered “low maintenance” as compared to a dog. However, the most frequent reason given for why a cat is being relinquished to an animal shelter is that he/she is not using the litter box.  Many people don’t know why their cat is not using the box and they become frustrated.  But there are several things that you can do if your cat starts “going outside the box.”
    
    
  • What’s the first thing you should do if your cat stops using the box?
    • Asses the problem.  Exactly what is he/she doing outside the box?  Defecating?  Urinating?  Is the urine in a puddle on the floor or is it being left on a vertical service?  Is the stool soft and does it smell different than usual?  Where is the inappropriate voiding taking place? (Right outside the box?  Always in the same place?  Different places?  Under a window?)
    • If the urine is being sprayed onto a vertical surface and the cat is also urinating in the litter box, then the problem is more likely territorial spraying - a separate issue.
      
      
  • After you’ve identified the problem behavior . . .
    • Talk to your veterinarian.  Many times cats will urinate outside of the box if they have a medical condition, such as a urinary tract infection or crystals forming in the urine.  The cat associates the pain that comes with urination with being in the box and seeks other places to void, hoping that it won’t be painful there.  Before you try any other solutions you need to rule out a medical problem, because if a medical condition is the source of the behavior, no other solution will work.  If your cat has a urinary tract infection, it can most likely be cleared up with antibiotics.
    • Unfortunately, sometimes conduct that develops initially because of a medical problem becomes a learned behavior or habit  (that’s why it is important to contact your veterinarian and start dealing with the problem as soon as you notice it!).
      
      
  • What if it’s not a medical problem? Your cat may be opting to do his/her business outside the box because something about the box is not desirable.  So let’s review the average cat’s preferences:
    • Cats generally like an uncovered litter box.
    • Cats like clean litter – scoop out the box daily (or more often); change out the litter completely periodically (even the clumping kind).
    • Many cats do not like litter with added fragrances.
    • Many cats are not fond of plastic liners – and they often rip them anyway.
    • Get the right size box for your cat and make sure that the sides are not too high – an older cat might find it difficult to climb into a box with high sides.
    • Locate the litter box in a relatively quiet area of the house, away from where the cat eats, drinks, and sleeps.  Don’t put the box in a high traffic area and don’t put it right next to something like a furnace that makes noise going on and off.  Also consider convenience for your cat and don’t put the only litter box far from the area where your cat likes to spend his/her time.  Make it easy for your cat to get to the box.
    • If you have multiple cats:
      • Rule of thumb:  One box per cat plus one extra (e.g., 3 litter boxes for 2 cats)
      • Place boxes where one cat can’t be trapped or cornered by another - allow for escape in two directions.
        
        
  • Other tips
    • Neutralize areas where the cat has urinated – clean with a product that neutralizes such as enzymatic cleaners, not alcohol-based cleaners. There are a variety of products designed specifically to neutralize urine stains.
    • If your cat is always using the same place, try putting a litter box there OR try putting the cat’s food/water there (since they don’t like to void where they eat).
    • If possible, block access to the area(s) where the cat is voiding.
    • You can re-train a cat to the litter box by confining the cat in a small space - such as a medium-sized dog crate or cat cage - when he/she cannot be supervised. Gradually allow more freedom as the cat is successful in using the litter box consistently.
    • Textures that cats find unpleasant can be used to discourage use of particular areas (e.g., an upside-down plastic carpet runner or aluminum foil).
    • Recommended resources:
      • Fastidious Feline by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. (available through CARE Center's online store)
      • Your veterinarian

       

  The Benefits of Taking Your Dog for a Daily Walk

  • Why is it recommended that you take your dog for a daily walk? It is a relatively small thing you can do that makes a big impact on your dog’s behavior, his relationship with you, and his overall sense of being a well-adjusted dog. The daily walk benefits your dog physically, mentally and emotionally.

  • What if your dog has a big fenced-in yard – is a walk still important? YES!
    • EXERCISE. Most dogs do not “self exercise” – especially once they are past the puppy phase.  So letting your dog out in the yard does not necessarily give him the same kind of benefit that a solid 20–30 minute walk will provide. Why is exercise important?  If you’re going to go to work for the day you want your dog to be able to settle down and behave appropriately while you are gone (or while you are working at home).
    • MENTAL STIMULATION. Even if your dog gets his exercise in some other way, the daily walk out in the neighborhood gives him a chance to use all of his senses.  He is exploring constantly – sniffing, watching, and hearing things.  The back yard becomes “old hat” whereas the daily walk provides new experiences every day.
    • RELATIONSHIP.  A daily walk gives you a great opportunity to work with your dog, improving your bond/communication.
    • A WELL-ROUNDED DOG.  A daily walk provides opportunities for socialization and practice dealing with new stimuli – traffic, other dogs, people, strollers, bicycles, etc.
      
      
  • What are some tips for people who have not been walking their dog but want to start? Dogs that have not been getting a regular walk might be very excited or skittish and timid depending on their personality and background.  Your dog might be difficult to handle at first.
    • Dogs of any age can take a training class!  Many classes available now focus on loose-leash walking rather than the “heel” for obedience. The instructor can give you advice about what kind of collar or harness would be best for you and your dog to use.
    • If your dog has no experience on leash, you’ll want to start in the house. Teach the dog to walk with you by rewarding appropriate behavior (i.e. staying at your side).  When the dog does well in the house, move your training sessions to the yard.
    • Recommended resources:
      • Time For A Walk by Sandy Myers (available through CARE Center's online store)
      • My Dog Pulls.  What Do I Do?  by Turid Rugas 
      • General training books by Patricia McConnell, Pat Miller, Jean Donaldson, and Ian Dunbar.

       

  Caring for Your Geriatric Dog or Cat

  • Like people, cats and dogs are individuals, and the rate at which they age varies.  In general, cats and dogs may start to show age-related conditions between 7 and 10 years of age, with large dogs aging faster than small dogs. Apart from size, other factors that affect the rate of aging include medical history, activity level, and nutrition.
    
    
  • Remember:  Age is not a disease.  When you observe changes in your pet’s routines, behaviors, or habits, don’t just assume it’s because she is getting old and ignore it.  It could be a symptom of a problem – and that problem might very well be a treatable condition.
    
    
  • Some recommendations include:
    • Watch for changes in eating habits, elimination, behavior, activity level and report them to your veterinarian.
    • Have your pet examined by a veterinarian twice a year.
      • Catching a medical condition early can be key to successful treatment and keeping your pet comfortable in his senior years.
      • Consider getting a senior blood panel – many veterinarians recommend a yearly blood test to check kidney and liver function.
    • Maintain exercise and activities. Don’t stop exercising your pet because she is no longer a youngster.
      • Exercise is very important for healthy joints. Gentle exercise (such as walking) is probably better than strenuous games of fetch or lots of jumping.  Remember an older pet might find it harder to recover when they overdo it.  Exercise is good for arthritic joints – but NOT if you over do it.
      • Don’t forget that mental stimulation is still important for older pets (i.e. toys, interactions with human and doggie friends, etc.).
    • Reduce calories or change diets to maintain a healthy body condition. Like people, pets’ metabolism will slow down with age.  A pet that is overweight will age more quickly than a lean animal – excess weight is hard on joints and other systems of the body. Talk to your veterinarian about how to best meet your pet's dietary needs.
    • Take care of teeth and gums. Many infections start in the mouth.  Have your veterinarian check your pet's teeth and follow your veterinarian’s advice on keeping those teeth in good condition.
    • Keep an eye out for ways to keep you pet comfortable and enable him to continue with his favorite activities.  Many older cats and dogs enjoy resting on a heated bed (available at pet supply stores) in the cold weather. Provide ways for your cat or dog to reach his favorite spot; he might need steps to reach the couch, windowsill, or bed.

     

  Adopting an Adult Dog

  • Benefits of adopting an adult dog. In some ways it is easier to select an adult dog that fits your lifestyle than a puppy.
    • You can assess personality more accurately. With adult dogs, you can tell whether they are shy or friendly, reserved or outgoing, etc. With puppies, their personalities may change as they mature.
    • The dog's size, coat, energy level, and other characteristics are known so that you can assess how the dog matches your lifestyle.
    • Sometimes it is less costly. The dog may already spayed or neutered, and will not require a series of vaccinations like puppies do.
    • Oftentimes adult dogs are already housetrained.
      
      
  • Selecting an adult dog.
    • Assess your lifestyle and be realistic about what you are looking for in an animal companion - don't select on looks alone!
      • What activities do you want to do with the dog?
      • Is it important that the dog is good with children?  Other pets?
      • Do you travel a lot?
      • How much time do you have for walks and activities with your dog?
    • Meet prospective dogs several times, if possible, and allow everyone in the household to meet and interact with the selected dog before making a final decision.
      
      
  • Bringing the adult dog home.
    • Expect a period of transition. Your new dog will need time to adjust to his new home and routine. 
    • A dog training class can be a great help to establish a relationship between you and your new dog and gives you tools for teaching the dog appropriate behavior in and outside the home.   Also, you'll have access to a trainer who can help with any specific questions you have.

   

  What is Animal Cruelty/Neglect? What You Should Do When You See It

  • Distinguishing cruelty, abuse, & neglect.  The terms “cruelty” and “abuse” refer to intentional acts against an animal.  “Neglect” refers to unintentional acts that cause harm, such as failure to take proper care of an animal.  Neglect can occur because of ignorance or lack of resources.  Either way, it is important to report so that authorities or educators can intervene and provide assistance to the animal.

  • Use the W.A.T.C.H. acronym to assess a pet-related situation that concerns you.
    • W – Weight
      • Does the animal look thin or emaciated?
    • A – Age
      • Is the animal very old or very young and does this play a role in physical appearance or condition?
    • T – Temperature
      • Is the animal outside longer than 2 hours in freezing temperatures?
      • Is the animal without shade during the heat of the summer?
      • Is the animal in an unventilated car when the outside temperature is over 70 degrees Fahrenheit?
    • C  - Condition
      • Does the animal have drinkable water?
      • Is the animal fed daily?
      • Is the collar too tight?
      • Is the dog on a short chain, his movement highly restricted?
      • Can the animal stand up, turn around in his living environment?
      • Is the living environment unsanitary?
      • Has the animal been abandoned?
    • H – Health
      • Is the animal sick, injured, lethargic, or distressed?
        
        
  • Reporting. Where to report--Animal Control, Police, Humane Society--depends on what you witness.
    • Many humane societies have certified humane investigators who can investigate a case and then work with law enforcement to resolve the issues.
    • Assess whether it is an “emergency”
      • An animal locked in a car on a hot day--call police right away.
      • Dog you are concerned about being neglected--call local humane society and they can send out a humane investigator.
      • Or, call animal control.

  
  Puppy Biting

  • Why do puppies bite (nip)?
    • Although biting may seem like an annoying and unruly behavior to us, to a dog it is entirely natural:
      • Puppies (and adult dogs) use their mouths in play.
      • Chewing feels good to a teething puppy.
      • Puppies use their mouths to learn about the world - holding things, smelling, tasting.
    • Puppies' teeth are designed to be very sharp, so that it does not take much pressure from their jaws to cause pain. In that way, the puppy quickly gets information that he has harmed another puppy (or human) and learns to control the strength of his jaws.
    • It is important that your puppy does use his mouth so he can learn bite inhibition (described in the next section). Accidental, exploratory, and excitement-induced biting is normal; however, if you have concerns that your puppy may be exhibiting aggressive behaviors, seek assistance from your veterinarian or a reputable trainer immediately.
      
      
  • What is “bite inhibition”?
    • Simply put, bite inhibition is the ability to control the amount of jaw pressure used in a “bite.”
    • Dogs play/fight and you may find no injuries on either dog because those dogs have well developed bite inhibition - that is, the ability to use their mouths but control their biting so as not to inflict real harm. Dogs with poor (or no) bite inhibition bite hard every time, no matter the circumstances.
    • Major goal during puppy hood:  Develop good bite inhibition!!  It is best to keep puppies with their mom and littermates until at least seven weeks of age; they teach each other bite inhibition.
      
      
  • What are some tips for developing bite inhibition in a puppy you have adopted? How should you respond when your puppy bites you? There are a few different approaches; sometimes you have to use them all, and sometimes one will be very effective.
    • Simulate puppy behavior--act like you’ve been hurt!  Puppies will yelp when they have been bit too hard, and consequently end the play with one another. Puppies learn they must use their jaws softly for the play to continue. So if your puppy nips you (your body, your clothes, your hair), act wounded with a high-pitched “Ouch” even if it didn't hurt. Most puppies (especially younger puppies) will realize they bit too hard and hurt you. Praise the puppy for taking his/her mouth off of you.
    • End the play and leave the room. When the puppy bites, exclaim “Ouch” and leave the room. This must be immediate, so make sure you are interacting in an area where it is safe to leave the puppy. Come back a few minutes later. When you return, engage in appropriate play – DO NOT scold puppy.  Puppies don’t hold grudges with each other and do not understand a delayed response.
    • Redirection. Have plenty of appropriate chew toys around. When your puppy takes to gnawing on your hand, redirect him/her to a wonderful chew toy and praise him/her for chewing on the appropriate toy.
    • Don’t encourage your puppy to use its mouth when playing with you, even if it doesn’t hurt you.  Always redirect, even if it is funny and amusing.  It won’t be funny when the dog is bigger, and it won’t be amusing to other people.
    • Use Bitter Apple or another dog repellant product on your hands and forearms.  Have an appropriate chew toy available to offer the puppy as soon as he realizes your hand doesn’t taste good (i.e. redirection).

   

  Tips for Incorporating a New Cat or Kitten into the Family

   

  Tips for Incorporating a New Dog or Puppy into the Family

  • Supervise interactions between the new dog and your existing pets.  Putting them together and “letting them work it out” is not always safe or the best way to introduce a new dog to the pet family.  Why not?  Our goal is to make the transition with as little stress as possible for all of the pets.  While some dogs might have the temperament and social skills necessary for “working it out,” others might not.  An animal that does not have the right temperament might become overly frightened; or he might respond inappropriately - which can in turn lead to stress among the others.  If we supervise, we can observe the animals’ reactions and when necessary intervene, redirect attention, or end the group session.  Transitions go better over the long haul if serious conflict is never allowed to happen.  Expose the pets to each other for short time periods at first - this diminishes the likelihood of tension erupting into a conflict.

  • Make being together a positive experience.
    • Resident dogs:  We want our existing pets to not feel that their status in the family is threatened by the addition of a new dog.  We want them to associate really good things with being around the new dog.  So, for example, we want the existing dog to notice that “whenever this new dog is around, Mom gives me really good treats.”  Or “Whenever this new dog is around, we go for a walk!”
    • Resident cats:  Don’t allow the new dog to terrorize your cat!  If the dog does not know how to behave with cats, keep her on leash whenever she is around the cat so that you can redirect her behavior and keep your cat safe.
      
      
     
  • Spend quality time with each pet. Adding a new dog to the family is a significant change, but what also might change for your existing pets is that you spend less time with them because your focus is on the new pet (which is very time consuming if the newcomer is a puppy or kitten).  So make a point to spend some time one-on-one with each of your pets.  Do some of the same things you did before and leave the new dog to have “down time” in his crate or confined area.   ALL of your pets still need physical, mental, and emotional stimulation.  Keep everybody happy by making sure everybody’s needs are met.
    
    
  • Provide a “quiet place” for the resident pets. If you have mature animals (cats or dogs), they might not be very interested in having a young pup or kitten coming at them all day long.  Make sure they have a way to get away from the new dog. When you see your older animal trying to get away or go to his quiet place, help him out.  Close the door, and redirect the new dog to a different activity.
    
    
  • Give it time. Incorporating a new dog into a family of pets does not often happen quickly.  You’ll notice your pets’ relationships continuing to evolve as the months go by.  Sometimes it is a full year before everything is smoothed out.  It can be especially slow for cats and dogs to establish a friendly relationship, so don’t expect everybody to be cuddled on the bed together right away.

   

  Myths About Spaying/Neutering Pets

  • My pet will gain weight. Our pets, just like us, will gain weight if they consume more calories than they burn. Just like people, as pets age, their metabolism slows down. To avoid an overweight pet, see tips on keeping pets fit below.

  • The surgery is too expensive. This is an important investment in your pet's health, and a one-time cost versus ongoing costs of raising puppies and kittens. In addition, most municipalities offer discounted license rates for spayed/neutered pets.
    • Talk with your veterinarian; many will reduce the price because they believe it is the best thing for your pet.
    • Check with local animal welfare organizations (below).  They may provide low-cost spay/neuter surgeries.
      
      
  • Female dogs and cats should have one litter before being spayed. There is no health benefit to having one litter before being spayed; in fact, having a heat cycle and/or a litter increases your female pet's risk of developing mammary cancer.
    
    
  • Pets should be six months old before being spayed or neutered. Veterinarians are routinely performing spay/neuter surgeries as young as four months of age.  Waiting can lead to unwanted pregnancies because cats and dogs can become sexual mature at five months of age.
    
    
  • Female dogs and cats can only get pregnant once a year. Cats are fertile from about February to November in the Midwest and can have up to three litters in one year. Dogs can have two litters in about 18 months.
    
    
  • If I breed my dog or cat, I’ll have offspring “just like” him/her. Many things make for a wonderful pet - just as we can’t guarantee what color markings offspring will be, we cannot guarantee that offspring will have the same personality traits as their parents.

   

  Puppy Socialization

  • What is meant by “puppy socialization”? This is the window of opportunity when a puppy is between about four weeks and five months of age during which he learns what is good in the world. The more you expose your puppy to during this period, the better he will be able to handle new situations in the future. Thus, socialization is the process of exposing your puppy to a variety of people, things, animals, and situations during this critical period and making those experiences positive ones.
    
    
  • Why is socialization important? A well socialized puppy will grow up to be a dog that is much less likely to be afraid of different types of people, other dogs, the veterinarian, traffic, riding in the car, etc. You will have a dog that can be a part of your family and feel at ease going to new places and meeting new people.
    
    
  • What are some tips for properly socializing a puppy?
    • Use Controlled Situations: For puppy socialization to be effective, you must be in control of the situation to keep it positive. Work with people that you know and who will cooperate with you. Since the puppy is young and will not have completed immunizations, limit exposure to other puppies/dogs that you know are healthy.
    • Introduce the puppy to a wide variety of people, such as children of different ages, men, women, people using crutches and canes, and people wearing accessories like hats, big coats, and gloves. Make it positive! Use food treats to associate something good with the interaction.
    • Expose the puppy to variety of every-day life situations, such as rides in the car, loud trucks, trips to the vet, busy sidewalks, and seeing other animals. Make it a positive experience!
    • Be careful not to scare the puppy: Watch for any signs of stress or fear and back away from the situation to a point of comfort. Signs of stress or fear may include avoiding eye contact, lowered body posture (body, ears, tail), panting, yawning, quick tongue flicks, and hesitation to move closer to the person, animal, or object. The idea is to imprint on the puppy that these things are positive, not just throw him into a frightening situation and imprint fear.

     

  Pet Identification

  • Why is pet identification important? Despite your best efforts, your pet can become lost. Nationally, only a small percentage of cats (2%) and dogs (16%) brought to animal shelters as strays are reunited with their families. Bystanders may be more likely to assist your pet if he is running at large and is wearing a collar and tag, indicating he has a home.
    
    
  • Collar and Tags.
    • There are a variety of identification products available through pet stores and catalogs. Standard, engraved tags may be attached to your pet's collar; pouches are available to quiet the sound of multiple tags. Information tubes can also be attached to the collar. Identity information can be placed on the collar itself using a brass plate or embroidery.
    • Make sure your contact information is current. If you use your cell phone regularly, add that number on the tag, especially if you travel with your pet.
    • Check tags and collars regularly to make sure information has not faded or worn away.
      
      
  • Microchip. A microchip is a permanent form of identification, unlike collars and tags which can come off or be removed (in the case of theft).
    • A microchip is a computer chip about the size of a grain of rice. It is inserted between your pet's shoulder blades. The chip contains an identification number for your pet which is linked to a national database containing your information.
    • Veterinarians, animal shelters, and animal control facilities have scanners that are used to read the chip and access information in the database so the pet and guardian may be reunited.
    • Cost: approximately $30 at veterinarians. The Champaign County Humane Society will insert a microchip for $15 by appointment.
    • If you adopt your pet from a shelter or rescue, make sure you send in your information to the microchip company.

   

  Keeping Your Pet Fit

  • If your pet is in good body condition you should be able to feel the ribs easily; and, when you look at your pet from above, you should be able to see a waistline (inward curve behind rib cage).
    
    
  • If you think your pet is overweight or obese, consult with your veterinarian to develop a weight reduction plan. In the case of older dogs, for example, you will want to obtain a general health assessment first. With cats, there can be health risks to rapid food reduction.
    
    
  • General Tips:
    • Don't free feed (dogs especially); feed meals with a measured amount of food. Don't rely on the suggested amount on the bag - the proper amount is individual for each animal (feed to proper body condition as described above).
    • Treats - limit type and quantity (low calorie treats are available)
    • Don't feed from the table - limit human-food, if any. Remember what is a few calories on you goes further on your pet.
    • Exercise! Most mature dogs do not self-exercise - even outside in a yard. Walks are good for your dog and you (start gradually at first if necessary). Play with your cat every day - fetch, feather chase, etc.

       

  Halloween Safety

  • Keep pets in a quiet part of the house, away from the door. Some pets will be frightened by people in costumes/masks. Dogs can become overstimulated by a constant doorbell, people, etc. It is not a good idea to take your dog out trick-or-treating unless he is a very mature, calm dog who is not easily agitated.
    
    
  • Make sure your pets are wearing identification. Whether staying home (in case of running out the open door) or going out, make sure dog/cat is wearing a collar with i.d. tags. Don't leave pets outdoors unattended.
    
    
  • Be careful with candles and jack-o-lanterns. Excited pets - tails wagging, jumping about - may easily knock these over.
    
    
  • Keep candy (& wrappers) away from pets. Candy can make them sick; wrappers can cause obstructions.
    
    
  • Only costume your pet if your pet is calm and accepting. If your pet does not want to wear a costume, don't force the situation; it can be very stressful and uncomfortable.

  
  

  Finding Pet Friendly Housing

  • Plan Ahead. Finding housing for you and your pets can take extra time. Begin your search at least 6 weeks before your need for new housing becomes a reality.
    
    
  • Know Where to Look. Large apartment complexes tend to be more pet-friendly than smaller landlords; however, they also tend to have more restrictions regarding the size and type of pet. So, if you have large dog it is probably best to contact landlords with only a few properties. Cats or small dogs are much easier to place in larger complexes.
    
    
  • Contact Local Resources such as the local animal shelter, animal welfare groups, dog trainers/clubs, or the staff at a veterinarian's office; they may know of landlords that allow pets.
    
    
  • Promote Yourself and Your Pet
    -Gather proof that you are responsible -- show you are a good tenant (and that your pet is, too).
    -Get a reference letter from prior landlord(s). A national study showed that the top concern of landlords was damage and the second concern was noise. Make sure your reference letter mentions these concerns.
    -Get a certificate or letter showing that your dog has completed a training class.
    -Have a picture of your pets (maybe taken inside your nice clean apartment).
    
    
  • Be Ready for Extra Cost. Most landlords will want additional damage deposit up front; some charge an extra monthly cost.
    
    
  • Be Honest. Don't try to hide pets; you may later be subject to eviction/legal action and find yourself without a home for yourself and your pets.

  
  

  Cat Over-Population: What Can You Do to Help?

  • Recognize responsibilities of pet ownership.
    
  • Adopt a cat from your local shelter or animal welfare group
  • Make sure your cats are spayed or neutered
  • Make sure your cats are microchipped and wear identification
  • Contact a local animal welfare organization or animal control if you know of cats at large
  • Volunteer or make a donation to an animal welfare group

  Local animal welfare organizations:
  Champaign County Humane Society
  Prairieland Anti-Cruelty Program
  Champaign County Animal Control
  CATsNAP
  Piatt County Animal Welfare Association (763-742-2274)
  Piatt County Animal Control (217-762-2812)
  Humane Society of Central Illinois
  Vermilion County Animal Shelter
  Danville Humane Society (217-446-4110)
  Effingham County Humane Society
  Macon County Animal Control Shelter
  Animal Protective League (Springfield)
  Sangamon County Animal Control Center
  Peoria Animal Welfare Shelter
  Peoria Humane Society
  Foster Pet OutReach
  Illinois Birddog Rescue
  Guardian Angel Basset Rescue
  Retired Greyhounds as Pets of Illinois
  
  Visit Petfinder.com for links to additional organizations

  
  

  Tips on Keeping Children Safe Around Pets

  Always supervise young children around pets. Most children are bitten by dogs that they know.
  
  In addition, there are a few things we suggest you teach your children about proper and safe behavior around pets . . .

  • Play Non-Contact Games with Pets (e.g. fetch/hide & seek rather than wrestling or tugging with a dog; using a toy rather than hands with cats). When dogs play with each other, they use their teeth and claws. Play is very exciting and a dog may not realize that he can't play with a child the same way he plays with another dog. Teach children to play gently and calmly. A child should keep his face an arm's length away from a dog's face. If the excitement level gets high - walk away - take a time out to calm down.
    
    
  • Stay Away from Sick or Resting Animals. A dog (or cat) that is in pain or not feeling well might snap when touched. Teach children: If a pet is acting hurt or in pain, leave him alone - tell an adult.
    
    
  • Respect Dogs' Territory, Toys, & Food. Dogs will protect what is important to them, such as food, toys, bed, his yard, or his car. If you come near something that the dog wants to protect, he might bite to make you leave his property alone. Teach children: Don't go into yard with a dog you don't know - don't reach through car window or fence to pet a dog. Never take things from a dog.
    
    
  • Don't Scare or Surprise an Animal. Quick movements or sudden noises can scare a pet and she might bite (instinctively) to protect herself. Teach children: When around a pet you don't know, be quiet and move slowly. Ask the pet caretaker's permission before you touch or approach.
    
    
  • Heed Warning Signs. Teach kids that if a dog growls - you're doing something he doesn't like, so stop doing it! Cats may also growl or hiss when upset.
    

  
  
  Tips on Housetraining Your Puppy or Adult Dog

  • Supervise, Supervise, Supervise! Your dog should either be outside with you, inside with you supervising closely, or in a confined area such as a crate or kitchen where the dog is least likely to eliminate.
    
    
  • Establish A Routine. Take the dog outside at regular intervals (every hour or so in the beginning) and especially before and after eating, after the dog wakes up from sleeping, and after a play session or any other exciting event.
    
    
  • Learn Your Dog's Body Language. Most dogs sniff the ground in circles before eliminating - watch for this sign and immediately take the dog outside and praise him when he eliminates. Don't wait for your dog to tell you he needs to go outside; anticipate his needs.
    
    
  • Avoid Punishment. Punishing your dog for eliminating in the house will only make him fearful of eliminating in front of you (including outside in the appropriate area). If an accident should happen, clean the area thoroughly (see below) and increase your efforts to supervise, establish a routine, and read your dog's body language (above).
    
    
  • Clean-Up Accidents. Use an enzymatic cleaner rather than typical household cleaning products. Look for products specifically designed for pet accidents. Follow the product's instructions carefully and prevent your puppy or dog's access to the affected area until it is completely dry after cleaning.

  Recommended booklet: Way to Go! How to Housetrain a Dog of Any Age by Karen B. London, Ph.D. and Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D. 2003. Dog's Best Friend, Ltd., Black Earth, WI.
  
  
  
  

  Tips on Obtaining a Dog from a Rescue Group
  
  A good rescue group will...

  • Tell you both the wonderful and challenging characteristics of the breed
    • Genetic predisposition for health problems
    • Temperament
  • Carefully determine which dogs are suitable for adoption and does not warehouse dogs
  • Have a thorough application/interview process (does a home visit and checks references)
  • Wants the dog returned to the group if for some reason the adopter can no longer keep him/her

  More questions to ask a breed rescue group:

  • When and how did the dog come into rescue?
  • If the dog has been in foster care, ask to speak to the foster guardian about the dog's personality and how he/she behaves in the home. You'll want to know...
    • Is the dog house trained? Crate trained?
    • Is the dog good with children? Other dogs? Cats?
    • Does the dog walk on a leash?
    • Does the dog have any fears: men, thunderstorms, riding in cars, being left alone?
  • Does the dog have any medical conditions?
  • Is the dog current with vaccinations?
  • Is the dog spayed/neutered?
  • Is the dog on heartworm preventative?